How to Feed a Nepenthes
As houseplants, carnivorous plants do have some unique care requirements compared to their aroid or terrarium counterparts. Unlike luscious Monsteras or climbing Philodendrons, who get their nutrients from the soil, these plants feast on living insects and other critters.
But this does not make carnivorous plants hard to care for!
In this guide, we will go all the details behind feeding your Nepenthes: the difference between “feeding” versus “fertilizing,” how to feed your carnivorous plant, some non-insect alternatives, and how often you should feed your meat-eating houseplant.
Feeding vs. Fertilizing
The goal of feeding and fertilizing is the same: to give the plant the nutrients it needs to thrive. These terms are sometimes used interchangeably, but they do have distinct definitions:
“Feeding” is what we say when a carnivorous plant is given insects or other animal-based matter. This is the most natural way for these plants to get their nutrients. In many cases, carnivores will catch food on their own and may not need to be manually fed by a grower. They essentially feed themselves.
“Fertilizing” is when non-animal matter or a chemical is applied to the traps, leaves, or soil in order to provide essential nutrients to the plant. While the difficulty of fertilizing can vary, it can be a great option for those who are averse to handling insects, or if your plants need an extra boost.
Feeding Nepenthes
Alive or dead, caught or bought—insects are the best meal for a carnivorous plant!
Nepenthes, like all carnivorous plants, will always prefer live insects: flies, fruit flies, gnats, crickets, grasshoppers, etc. Whether a plant is growing indoors or outdoors, it will likely catch food on its own. As a grower, you could also catch insects and feed the plant by hand or with tweezers.
Any insects you find dead or kill (such as through swatting or stomping—not with pesticide!)) would work as well. For example, if you knock down a pesky fly in your windowsill, you can pop that in a Nepenthes pitcher.
Of course, sometimes insects just aren’t available, or they don’t make it to the traps. If you prefer to have a consistent and steady source of food, insects—both alive and dead—can be purchased at local pet stores.
Fertilizing Nepenthes
Some of us can get a bit squeamish when handling insects, despite how much we love our carnivorous plants. If you want an alternative to insects, there are a few fertilizing options that you can choose from to help give your Nepenthes the nutrients it needs.
Osmocote is one of our favorites when it comes to Nepenthes fertilizers. These slow-release granules can be dropped into a pitcher once a month—and you’re set! They have no unpleasant smells, are safe to handle, and do not require any precise measurement. Their slow-release of nutrients also makes for a very low-maintenance option.
Maxsea is another alternative to insects that we use often, especially for tiny seedlings. This is a water-soluble fertilizer made from seaweed, and is packed with the nutrients carnivorous plants need. For Nepenthes, dilute the Maxsea to 400 ppm, or about a quarter teaspoon per gallon of water. This solution can be given either directly to the pitchers using a syringe or turkey baster (depending on the size of the plant) or applied to the leaves, in a process called foliar feeding.
Those who have more experience growing Nepenthes may also opt for adding fertilizer to the soil. While carnivorous plants natively grow in nutrient-poor soil, feeding the soil of Nepenthes is generally safe, based on our direct experience, so long as it is done in a regimented way.
At Carnivero, our Nepenthes growing in 3” pots get 6 osmocote pellets every 6 months. Then, once per month, they are given Maxsea at 300-400 ppm.
If growers are careful with the amounts, and then eventually repot/change the soil, the plants shouldn’t experience nitrogen burn. One exception we would emphasize is that highland Nepenthes, like Nepenthes edwardsiana, tend to be highly sensitive to soil feeding, so it is not recommended for these varieties.
Lastly, cricket powder is another alternative to live insects—despite being made of insects!
Cricket powder is exactly what the name suggests (powdered crickets), but given its flour-like texture, many growers find it to be more approachable. The powder can be scooped or sprinkled into Nepenthes pitchers once or twice a month. Note that if the cricket powder settles on the peristome of the Nepenthes, it can mold. If you do get some on the peristome, gently wipe it off—and you’re good to go!
How Often Nepenthes Should Be Fed
One fact about Nepenthes that most people don’t realize is that these plants can actually grow for years without a meal. They will, of course, grow much more slowly, be smaller, and struggle overall, but they can still survive.
That being said, we do not recommend neglecting to feed or fertilize your Nepenthes!
We like to share this bit of information to help put in perspective just how feeding and fertilizing should be prioritized in the overall care of a Nepenthes.
First and foremost, Nepenthes need adequate light.
Photosynthesis is what gives these plants the energy they need to grow leaves, form traps, and recycle their nutrients. Without proper lighting, a Nepenthes will suffer, regardless of how many crickets it eats.
Secondly, Nepenthes need to be watered properly.
Water is essential for the survival of the Nepenthes. Ensure you are watering your plant consistently, allowing it to dry out just slightly between waterings, and use only distilled, reverse-osmosis, or rainwater.
For a healthy Nepenthes, we recommend feeding at least one pitcher once per month. Whether your plant catches bugs on its own or you pop in a pellet of Osmocote, your Nepenthes will be content with one or two snacks per month.
What Happens When You Over-Feed a Nepenthes
You may notice that in an established, acclimated, and healthy Nepenthes, pitchers die off while other new pitchers grow in—typically in tandem with one another. This is completely normal for any and all Nepenthes.
There are several factors that contribute to how often and how quickly pitchers form and die off (like humidity levels or light). There are also factors that help determine the size and color of a pitcher (like light and genetics)
Something that affects both of these growth habits is how often and how much a pitcher “eats.”
Typically, if a Nepenthes is fed more than once a month, we would expect to see the next few pitchers be larger, more mature, or “showier” than previous pitchers—think stronger color or more prominent exhibition of desirable traits.
The trade-off to ‘boosting” your Nepenthes like this is that the pitcher that was fed more frequently to achieve this growth will likely die off more quickly. This is because Nepenthes traps are equipped to digest only so many nutrients. If it frequently digests insects or has one large meal, that could trigger its die-off.
For example, we have a few breeder Nepenthes whose pitchers are around 10-12 inches long. These pitchers are wide enough to catch small mice or snakes. When these pitchers find this kind of prey…that usually becomes the trap’s last meal.
If they were to not catch something so large, then the pitchers would last a bit longer. However, after such a substantial amount of nutrients, we would expect the next few pitchers to be particularly lovely!
What Happens When You Under-Feed a Nepenthes
On the flip side of this coin, under-feeding a Nepenthes can have the opposite effect: slower growth and smaller pitchers. The pitchers may not die off as quickly, but they will not form as quickly, either. The Nepenthes, of course, will still live!
SEE MORE:
Videos:
How to Feed a Nepenthes (on YouTube)
Further Reading: